reviews

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Positano has been met with positive reviews by patrons and critics alike...

Issue Date: D Magazine JULY 2007, Posted On: 6/21/2007

Revisit: Positano

by Jennifer Chininis

Chef-owner Antonio Avona, most recently of Antonio’s in Addison Circle, took over the tongs at Positano from original chef Rino Brigliadori more than a year ago. As far as we can tell, he has settled into the neighborhood nicely. At a recent dinner on the patio—outfitted with heaters, fans, and misters—tables were full of what must have been regulars, laughing and bantering with the affable chef.

His staff at Antonio’s must have liked him a lot, because our server followed his old boss over and had nothing but glowing things to say about him and his dishes. He was also familiar with the menu, because most of the items came straight from the Antonio’s lineup. We started off with mussels and couldn’t believe how huge they were—and not a tough one in the bunch. I only wish they had arrived in a deeper bowl so they could soak in their white wine and butter broth. A special request for an appetizer-size cioppino was granted amicably, and we were pleased with the hearty chunks of redfish, scallops, shrimp, mussels, and clams swimming in a fresh tomato base with a hint of red pepper.

Veal marsala with wild mushroom was hearty and woodsy, but a side of bowtie pasta tossed in a so-so marinara sauce was an inappropriate and lousy accompaniment. Orecchiette with olive oil, garlic, and broccoli rabe was a light pasta made heartier with Italian sausage, another special request granted. Our wine for the night, a Nuhar Nero D’Avola and Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Sicily recommended by the chef, had a nice price at $36. No wonder his regulars like him so much. 18111 Preston Rd. 972-407-9180. $$.

GuideLive - July 2006

By TODD EPPERSON / Special Contributor

ROMANCE BY THE SEA: Positano has been through several transformations, most recently taken over by chef-owner Antonio Avona, who previously held toque over Antonio Ristorante in Addison. He's been saucing up this Far North Dallas kitchen about four months now, but he didn't change the name because it's a romantic reminder of where he honeymooned. The restaurant is named for an old fishing port on Italy's craggy Amalfi Coast

TEASING THE APPETITES: Mozzarella alla Caprese was a good example of fresh cheese accented with slices of tomato, red onions and basil flakes in a light balsamic vinaigrette: a little bland but a decent palate teaser. Much better (and we've sampled this many times before) was carpaccio di manzo, paper-thin slices of delicious raw beef enhanced with shavings of Parmesan and dots of capers. Perhaps it was the light drizzle of house vinaigrette that added that special extra zing?

FEEDING A HUNGER: Chef Avona has simplified the menu, emphasizing Italian basics and fresh seafood offerings prepared with flair. Staples include veal parmigiana, a large cutlet that was good if a bit chewy. It was served with a side of farfalle pasta, cooked perfectly al dente and lightly dressed in fresh-tasting marinara.

More interesting and unusual was lasagna del mar, a large serving of layered pasta punctuated with shrimp, scallops and crabmeat in a creamy, rich tomato sauce.

But what about the dishes that define an Italian restaurant the way that fresh tortilla chips and house-made salsa hint of the authenticity of a good Tex-Mex restaurant? Well, Positano has the basics down as well as the specialties. Pasta Bolognese was a classic example of how well-cooked pasta paired with a simple, well-seasoned meat sauce is heaven on a fork.

DRINK UP: The wine list here features a good variety of whites by the glass and a more varied list by the bottle. An extensive list of after-dinner cordials is presented with the dessert menu.

SCENIC VIEWS: The environs of Positano are quietly elegant, with textured mustard-color walls, low lighting and white tablecloths. Murals of Positano by the sea on several walls add interest, while the bar area and its flat-screen TVs tuned to sports channels give the guys a break.

The patio features water misters to beat the heat, but on our visit, it also had an air of heavy cigar smoke, both on arrival and departure.

PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE: From the get-go, it was obvious that our experience at Positano was going to be better than the norm. Whether you're paying $20 for a meal or $200, it's nice to know that your patronage is appreciated and that the staff wants to make your visit pleasant. Our waiter did that in spades, carefully explaining the menu's concept and making the daily specials sound delicious, replacing full sets of silverware after the appetizers were finished, and elegantly removing bread crumbs from the tablecloth at meal's end.

First-class service, so hard to find these days, stands out here. Bravo

GuideLive - August 2005

By KIM HARWELL / Special Contributor